Varanasi  वाराणसी

Varanasi  वाराणसी, also commonly known as Benares or Banaras  बनारस, and Kashi  काशी,  is a city situated on the left (west) bank of the River Ganga (Ganges) in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, regarded as holy by Hindus, Buddhists, and Jains. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and probably the oldest of India.]

The Kashi Naresh (Maharaja of Kashi) is the chief cultural patron of Varanasi and an essential part of all religious celebrations. The culture of Varanasi is closely associated with the River Ganges and the river's religious importance. The city has been a cultural and religious centre in North India for several thousand years. The Benares Gharana form of Indian classical music developed in Varanasi, and many prominent Indian philosophers, poets, writers, and musicians resided or reside in Varanasi, including Kabir, Ravidas Their Guru Swami Ramanand, Trailanga Swami, Munshi Premchand, Jaishankar Prasad, Acharya Shukla, Ravi Shankar, Girija Devi, Hariprasad Chaurasia, and Bismillah Khan. Tulsidas wrote his Ramacharitamanas there, and Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath near Kashi.
 

How to go Varanasi?

By train

Trains are the easiest way to reach Varanasi, with multiple daily services to cities including Delhi, Agra, Lucknow, Mumbai and Kolkata.

Varanasi is served by two major railway stations. Many trains arrive at Varanasi Junction (IR station code : BSB) in the heart of the city, and many others arrive at Mughal Sarai Junction (IR station code : MGS), about 15 km east of the city (Rs 20, 45 min in a rickshaw).

Here is a list of useful trains to reach Varanasi:

By bus

There are daily buses to the Nepali border and other points around northern India. Local buses leave from the main bus station near the train station, almost every hour in the morning and one in the evening, to Gorakhpur (5-6 hrs, Rs 120), from where buses leave to the Nepali border at Sonauli (~3 hrs, Rs 56).

There are buses run by state government from Lucknow (8hrs), Kanpur (9hrs - Rs. 195) and Allahabad(3hrs - Rs. 88)

By plane

Varanasi Airport (IATA: VNS) is about 25km from the city center. Indian Airlines , Air Sahara , Jet Airways , Kingfisher  and SpiceJet  all have daily flights to Delhi and there are daily flights to Mumbai on Air Sahara ,Indian Airlines and SpiceJet.

Allow plenty of time to get to the airport, it can take an hour or more depending on traffic. A taxi should run around Rs 200-250 or about Rs 125 in an auto-rickshaw, but most drivers will want to charge double since they will likely be coming back empty. If it suits your schedule there is a daily bus at 10AM that leaves from Hotel India and costs Rs 50.

Get around - Sightseeing

Many of the sights are in the tiny narrow winding alleys of the waterfront. Rickshaws are only useful for longer trips across town or to the train stations. A cycle-rickshaw from the Junction train station to Dasaswamedh Ghat (or Godaulia if the road is closed) should cost Rs 20. From Godaulia to Assi Ghat is Rs 10. Taxis exist but traffic makes them impractical. There is a pre-paid auto-rickshaw stand at the Varanasi Junction (Cantt) train station.

By foot is the only way to see the waterfront and the ghats but be ready to be hot, sweaty, and lost - locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction. The names of ghats and signs pointing to restaurants and hotels are often painted on the walls in Roman letters. For better orientation, walk into any book store and pick up a small guide/map book that will have the list of all the ghats and their historical background.

By car

There are many car rental companies available.

Sightseeing

Varanasi is not a city with distinct tourist destinations as such: instead, the experience is in watching the spectacle of life and death on the river and meandering through the alleys of the old city.

* Vishwanath Temple - also known as the Golden Temple, security is tight making entrance difficult and sometimes completely off limits to foreigners. No bags, cellphones or pens are allowed. They can be deposited in the shops by the temple entrance. The temple was destroyed multiple times by Mughal invaders and was re-constructed by Hindu kings who followed them.

* Kaal Bhairav Temple - is the temple for Kaal Bhairav - a dreadful form of Lord Shiva symbolizing death. Its a tradition to buy black threads (costs about Rs. 15 per 50 threads as of Sep 2009), keep it in the shrine and then wear it on the arm, wrist or around the neck as a protection against evil forces.

* Nepali Hindu Temple - A small golden temple, built in Nepali architecture, near Lalita Ghat

* Alamagir Mosque - overlooking Panchganga Ghat, it's a great place for a bird's eye view of the area.

* Man Mandir Observatory

* Tulsi Manas Temple

* Durga Temple

* Banaras Hindu University - a very green and peaceful campus. Few actually know that this University was built during Indian freedom struggle and is known as Oxford of the East. This is the largest residential university of Asia, having approx. 124 independent departments. You also visit Bharat Kala Bhavan, a museum of Art and Archeology inside university. There is also a Vishwanath Temple bulit by Pt. Madan Mohan Malviya.

* Ram Nagar Fort - the fort of the King of Kashi

* Gowdi Matha Temple - The devi at this temple is supposed to be the sister of the lord Kashi Vishwanath. Its a tradition to visit her just before you leave Kashi. You buy sea shells at this place and offer them to the God saying that the virtues of donating the shells goes to her while you keep the virtues of having visited the holy shrines in Kashi and bathing in the ganges. The trip to Kashi is expected to yield results only after completing this custom.

Ghats

While the use of ghats for cremation is well known, they are also used to give last rites to those who do not need cleansing by fire to purify their soul, including young children and pregnant women. Instead, their bodies are wrapped in cloth, weighted with stones and deposited into the Ganges. However, it is fairly common for the ropes to give way, resulting in putrefying corpses washing up on the east shore across from the city. Steer clear if squemish.

A ghat is a series of steps leading down to the river, used by bathers and pilgrims, and riverside Varanasi consists of a long sequence of these. It's generally possible to walk directly between them, though near Manikarnika Ghat you'll have to navigate your way up and around through the alleyways. The best option for viewing the ghats is to charter a boat and see them from the river.

Hindus consider it auspicious to die in Varanasi, so some ghats are known as burning ghats, where bodies are cremated (in full view) before their ashes are placed in the Ganges.

Some of the main ghats, from north to south:

* Narad Ghat - the ghat on which bathing with spouse is not advised because the myth of contention
* Panchganga Ghat - the meeting of the five rivers
* Manikarnika Ghat - the main cremation ghat; a must-see, but remain quiet and never take photographs
* Dasaswamedh Ghat - the main ghat and site of the large evening aarti; only reachable by foot at some times of day, about a 5 minute walk south from Godaulia
* Rana Ghat
* Kedar Ghat - brightly painted in stripes and busy with bathers, very photogenic
* Harishchandra Ghat - the cremation place were Raja Harishchandra did the last rituals of his son.
* Hanuman Ghat
* Shivala Ghat
* Tulsi Ghat - site of the large water purification plant
* Assi Ghat - a popular place to stay with many hotels, restaurants and internet cafes

Place to sleep - Hotels in Varanasi.

The most interesting area to stay is around the ghats. This is where most foreigners hang out - and with good reason. In addition to the ghats and river, Varanasi's most famous temples and main market are all located in this area. Another choice is Sarnath, about 8km from Varanasi. It is a little removed from 'the action' but much safer and calmer than Varanasi.
Budget

* Monu Family Paying Guest House, D 8/4 Kalika Gali, Dashashwamedh, Varanasi 221 001 (near Golden Temple), ☎ 0091-0542-2400908 (monufamliyguesthouse@gmail.com), . Monu Guest House is situated right in the epicentre of the old town. It has very colourful, sweet and a familiar atmosphere. Rooms are very neat and clean with attached bath, western loos and h&c shower.They have also Internet available at Rupees 30/hour Only.Hindi courses and music lessons of Sitar,Tabla,Vocal are available in house and they also sells Instruments like Sitar,Tabla,Harmonium,Surbahar,etc. over there. Rs 160-610.t

* Ganga Fuji Home, (between Man Mandeer Ghat and Dasaswamedh Ghat). Some rooms have shared bathroom; more expensive rooms have A/C and TV. All rooms are clean, with clean sheets and towel. The rooftop restaurant offers evening concerts every night. Rs 350-990.

* Groovy Ganges Guesthouse (ग्रूवी गंगा गेस्ट हाउस), B2/225, B-6-A, Bhadaini (in Bhadaini neighborhood near Assi Ghat), ☎ 993.618.0896 (info@groovyganges.org, fax: (001)206.984.1165),  checkin: whenever; checkout: no hurry. Live in an Indian home with an Indian family. Unlimited broadband internet access comes with every room, making this an ideal place for long-term students, researchers, and activists wanting to integrate into local culture. Boiled water used for all cooking. Rs 2000/week.

* Hotel River View, a couple ghats north of Panchganga Ghat (To get here, walk north from Dasaswamedh Ghat for about 15 minutes, and follow the numerous blue and white painted signs that begin to appear.). Rs100-250.

* Maa Vaishno Guesthouse (माँ वैशो गेस्ट हाउस), B 5/188 Shivala Ghat, ☎ 91.542.227.7013.mobile-09.33.649.0694 (vermadinesh81@gmail.com). Family run guesthouse situated two minutes from the Shivala Ghat.a very short walking distance to the burning ghats but far enough away to avoid smoke and smell.ganga view 10 clean rooms, all with attached bathroom with running hot and cold shower. Roof top restaurant,sunrise & sun set from roof & room. ADSL internet, laundry, train, bus and air ticket arrangement and other travel services available. free pickup service from varanasi railway station.

* Maruti Guest House (मारुती गेस्ट हाउस), Sahodarbir (near Assi Ghat), ☎ 231.2261, . Friendly family run guest house with clean well lit rooms. There is a roof top garden and restaurant where fresh home made food is served. Power backup for the rooms and hot showers are available as well as broadband Internet access. The owner of the guest house, Dr. V.N. Tripathi, gives Yoga and meditation lessons upon request. Rs 50-400.

* Sahi Riverview Guest House, (on Assi Ghat, next to Harmony Book Shop), ☎ Phone. This place is very clean, quiet, and recommended. Newly opened, the guest house has the most fascinating Ganges views and the exotic sunrise from its balconies, rooms and terrace. All rooms have 24 hrs hot water with attached bathrooms.

* Shanti Guesthouse, ☎ Phone. There are several hotels near the ghats that have taken the name "Shanti" after the originals good reputation. The "original" is a clean but very basic building with several floors of windowless rooms (cooler and safer than ones with exterior windows). There's a dorm on the roof. The rooftop cafe offers money changing, internet access, and a view of the Burning Ghats.

* Sita Guest House, Chausatti Ghat (on the banks of the ganges next to the main ghats), ☎ 542 2450061 or 3251088 (sitaguesthouse@yahoo.com),. A very short walking distance to the burning ghats but far enough away to avoid smoke and smell. Rooms are clean and of a good size all with view of the river. Hot water in every room and roof top restaurant. The hotel also has generator for the many power cuts in Varanasi. The hotel provides many services for its guests, including internet, in house laundry, train and air ticket bookings.

* Tiwari Lodge, B-1/243-A, Assi Ghat (Assi Crossing, accross the street from Hotel Haifa), ☎ 2315129. checkout: negotiable. 100-150 Rs. edit, is right after Assi crossing close to Assi Ghat. It is run by a Brahmin, and has its own small temple on the site. Very relaxed and well maintained by local standards, do not expect staff to be present all the time. For check-in the owner can usually be found sitting in the aryuvedic massage cubicle late afternoons. Upstairs rooms are with shared bath Rs 100/single. Ensuite will be Rs 150, with long term rates negotiable. Bring your sheets and towel. Door locked midnight to 6AM.

* Vishnu Rest House, Pandey Ghat, ☎ 450 206. A hotel spanned over 200 year old Vishnu temple. A very clean and friendly guest house over looking the river, some rooms with views. You will often find classical music programs and puja held during morning and evening time. The rooms are with power backup and hot water.

Mid-range

* Hotel Malti, Vidyapeeth, ☎ (542)356844 351395.

* Kautilya Society residence (कौटिल्य समाज), D 20/21 Munshi Ghat, ☎ +91-542-2452179; +91-542-2455139 (info@kautilyasociety.com). Located on the banks o the river Ganges at the city centre, it is not an Hotel but it is a NGO for intercultural dialogue, that also offers rooms for students and scholars. The atmosphere of Ram Bhavan remains faithful to the simple comforts of an Indian home with a splash of colour. Walls are painted in the colors of the ancient city: a cooling forest green facing the court; peacock blues in the bedrooms; Annapurna rose in the kitchen. Furniture is colonial Teak or cane. By Indian law it is necessary for all residing guests to become members of the Society; annual membership is €6. Rooms in high season cost from per day, including half board (€ 1 a day for additional guests sharing the same room). In low season rates are approximately 20% lower. Special prices can be obtained by long term guests. €6 membership plus €6-10.

Splurge

* The Gateway Hotel, Nadesar Palace Grounds, ☎ +91 542 250 3001 (gateway.varanasi@tajhotels.com). A five-star hotel owned by the Taj Group, it's the nicest in the city. Rooms from $150 (or even less off-season, inquire about discounts.